Garment construction



1962 B. BROWNSTEIN 3,047,878

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed Nov. 5. 1958 2 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR.

BENJAMIN BROWNSTEIN ATTORNEY Aug. 7, 1962 B. BROWNSTElN 3,047,878

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Nov. 5, 195a INVENTOR. BENJAMIN BROWNSTEIN ATTOR N EY 3,047,878 GAPMENT QONSTRUCTIQN Benjamin Brownstein, 7M1 Stockton Drive, Knoxville, Tenn. Filed Nov. 5, 1958, Ser. No. 772,076 Claims. (Cl. 2--7) This invention relates to the construction of a coat or similar article and more particularly to the method of constructing coats wherein the coat sleeves are lined with sleeve linings.

It has been customary in the attachment of a sleeve lining to a coat, to sew the sleeve lining into the armhole of the coat by hand or only partly by machine. This has been occasioned by the fact that it has not been possible by presently used methods, to sew the entire armhole of the sleeve lining to the entire armhole of the coat by machine, if it is desired that the body, shoulder, and yoke lining be attached to the body canvas, shoulder pad and/or sleevehead and armhole of the cloth shell and to attach or sew the sleeve lining seams to the seams of the cloth sleeve. In order to reduce the expense of the hand-stitching operation, attempts have been made to sew part of the sleeve armhole lining to the coat and then finish the last part by hand sewing.

Other methods have existed where it was possible to sew the sleeve lining to the armhole of the coat but at the cost of not attaching or sewing the sleeve lining seams to the seams of the cloth sleeve. These methods reduced the cost but did not entirely solve the problem.

It is an object of this invention to eliminate the memsity for hand sewing or felling of the sleeve armhole or any portion thereof to the armhole of the coat. The tedious hand sewing operations have gradually raised the cost of such sewing until it has become a formidable cost factor.

In addition to the high cost, there is a great shortage of workers who can or wish to learn to sew by hand, and, therefore, it has been necessary to seek means of replacing the various hand operations. The advantage of the present operation is that it replaces the more costly and tedious hand sewing operation by the more economical and faster machine sewing operation.

This invention also makes possible the sewing of the cuff or turn-under of the sleeve lining to the cuff of the cloth sleeve by machine.

Furthermore the method of this invention makes it possible to sew or tack the front and back seams of the sleeve lining to the front and back seams of the outer cloth s leeve.

Other objects and advantages of the invention will be understood from the following description of the invention.

Briefly, the invention comprises the method of arranging a sleeve lining and coat so that they may be stitched together by machine. The steps of the method include turning the coat inside out and surrounding the armhole of the coat with the armhole of the sleeve lining.

More specifically, the method of the invention comprises joining the two portions of the sleeve lining, i.e. the under-sleeve lining portion and the top sleeve lining portion together to fonm an armhole, and fitting the armhole of the sleeve lining over the shoulder of an armhole of the coat which is turned inside out with the cloth sleeve extending up through the inside of the armhole of the coat.

The armhole of the coat is constructed with an openfaced armhole wherein the armhole and the shoulder lining have, prior to the attachment of the sleeve lining, been basted up and attached to the cloth of the armhole,

after the armhole has been trimmed and the sleeve head attached to the armhole.

Heretofore, at this point in the construction, it is usual to attach the sleeve head to the cloth armhole seam prior to attachment of the armhole of the sleeve lining tothe armhole of the coat. It has been the practice for the armhole to have been basted out or pinned out in position and trimmed either by machine or hand, and the sleeve head attached, either during the trimming operation, if done by machine, or sewn in by hand or machine after the trimming. With the parts so assembled it has been impossible to connect the armhole of the sleeve lining to the armhole of the coat completely by machine because whereas half of the arrnscye of the sleeve lining has been, in the part, joined by machine to the armhole of the coat, a point is reached where the sewing machine operator has no room left to sew any further in order to complete the entire armhole.

As noted above, by the method of this invention, the coat is turned inside out to expose the seam side of the armhole of the coat. The sleeve lining, which is initially in two pieces and which is finally joined along an elbow seam and a front seam, is positioned with the armhole of the lining surrounding the armhole of the coat. In order to position the sleeve lining in this manner, it is usually necessary to leave a substantial portion of one of the seams of the sleeve lining open so that the sleeve lining will fit around the coat. With the armhole of the sleeve lining in position surrounding the armhole of the coat, the fabric of each may be readily sewed together by machine around the entire armhole.

Thereafter, the portion of the seam of the sleeve lining, which was left open, may be sewn together. The cloth or outer sleeve is then pulled inside out, so that it lies side-by-side with the sleeve lining. It is then possible to tack the seams of the cloth sleeve to the seams of the sleeve lining. The coat body may then be pulled through the sleeve lining so that the sleeve lining envelops the sleeve. In this position the cufi of the sleeve and the sleeve lining may be sewn together. Thereafter the parts can be turned rightside out so they are in position for use.

Reference is made to the attached drawings which illustrate a coat sleeve and related parts, and which show the steps of the method of this invention.

The drawings illustrate the various parts of a sleeve and a sleeve lining and the coat body to which the sleeve and the sleeve lining are to be attached, as follows:

FIG. 1 shows the parts of a sleeve lining before they are assembled with the coat body and sleeve.

FIG. 2 shows the sleeve lining positioned surrounding the coat body for machine sewing.

FIG. 3 shows the front seam of the sleeve lining after it has been completed, with the body of the coat inside the sleeve lining.

FIG. 4 shows the sleeve pulled through the armhole of the coat, so that it lies side-by-side with the sleeve lining.

FIG. 5(a) shows the assembly of parts as viewed from the side shown in FIG. 4-, i.e. with sleeve showing, after stitching of the sleeve lining to the sleeve.

FIG. 5(b) shows the same parts from the reverse side as viewed in FIG. 5(a).

FIG. 6 shows the coat being pulled through the cuff of the sleeve lining so that the sleeve lining will be enveloping the sleeve.

FIG. 7 shows the coat with the inside out and the sleeve lining enveloping the cloth or outer sleeve.

FIG. 8 is a partial view of the coat showing the coat, sleeve and sleeve lining in final position for use.

Referring to FIG. 1, the sleeve lining consists of an under sleeve lining portion 1 and a top sleeve lining portion 2. As shown, the under sleeve and top sleeve u lining portions It and 2 are seamed their entire length along the elbow side, as shown at 3 in FIG. 1. Along the front part of the sleeve lining portions l and 2, the under sleeve portion and the top sleeve portion are sewn together for only a portion of their length, as shown at The front seam may be sewn only a distance of an inch or so beginning from the armhole of the sleeve lining indicated at 20.

It will be understood that it is desirable to leave a substantial portion of the front seam, or if desired, alternatively, the elbow seam of the sleeve lining unsewn, so that the sleeve lining can be fitted over and surround armhole 21 of coat body 6, as shown in FiG. 2. If it is desired, both the front seam 4 and the rear seam 3 may be limited to very short distances similar to 4, as shown in FIG. 1, so that the top sleeve lining portion 2 and the under sleeve portion l are only joined sufliciently to define the armhole 20 of the sleeve lining.

A cloth sleeve 5 is positioned with its sleeve head 7 extending up through the inside of the armhole 21 of the coat, as shown in FIG. 2. With the arrangement of the sleeve lining armhole positioned around the outside of armhole 21 of the coat body, and the sleeve head 7 (which may have been previously basted into position in the armhole 21 of the coat body) the armhole opening 20 of the sleeve lining may be conveniently sewn to the armhole 21 of the coat body by standard well-known equipment which is used to sew the sleeve head of cloth sleeves to the armhole of coat bodies. It is also possible to sew the armhole of the sleeve lining to the armhole of the coat if the cloth sleeve is pulled through the lining side of the coat and if done in the manner disclosed herein.

The seam is sewn in FIG. 2 as at 8, this scam being produced by machine, as noted above, and can be made as strong as desired according to the needs and desires of the user.

The armhole of the sleeve lining can thus be sewn by lock stitch, chain stitch or blind stitch machines, either after the armhole lining shoulder and yoke lining cloth of the coat shell, body canvas, shoulder pad and sleeve head have been basted or pinned in position, sewn together and trimmed, or the sleeve lining at the armhole can be sewn together with all of the above at the same time when trimming the armhole or trimming the armhole and sewing the sleeve head into the armhole of the coat.

After the sleeve lining has been sewn to the armhole, as by the seam 8, in FIG. 2, the front seam 4 can be completed as at da so that the entire front seam is completed, as shown in FIG. 3, the seam being completed down to the cuff or bottom 22 of the sleeve lining.

Thereafter the cloth or outer sleeve 5 is pulled through the armhole 21 of the coat into the position shown in FIG. 4, os that it lies side-by-side with the sleeve lining.

FIGS. 5a and 512 show the parts as in FIG. 4 as viewed from opposite sides of the assembly of parts. FIG. 5a is a view from the side on which the coat sleeve or the cloth outer sleeve 5 is observable, and FIG. 5b shows the assembly of parts from the side in which the sleeve lining is observable, with the top sleeve lining portion 2 being on top. In this position the sleeve lining is sewed or tacked along the front seam 9a of the sleeve 5 at It) and/ or to the rear seam Qb of the cloth sleeve 5 at 111.

After the sleeve lining 1, 2 and the cloth outer sleeve 5 have been sewn together, as shown in FIG. 5a, the coat body is pulled through the cuff of the sleeve lining as shown in FIG. 6. After this step, the sleeve lining 1, 2 will be enveloping the cloth or outer sleeve 5.

FIG. 7 shows the parts of the assembled coat sleeve and sleeve lining after the step of FIG. 6. In this position, the sleeve lining, with the top sleeve portion 2 showing, envelops the sleeve 5, and the coat body 6 is also observable. At this point the bottom of the sleeve lining .22 can be sewn or felled to the cuff of the sleeve. Thereafter the coat body 6 and sleeve 5 are turned rightside out so that the parts take their regular positions, with the sleeve lining 1, Z

inside the cloth sleeve 5 and with the coat right side, as shown in FIG. 8.

From the foregoing description, it will be clearly understood that by following the steps of this invention, an improved method of attaching sleeve linings to coat armholes may be achieved in that the sleeve lining may be sewn to the armhole of the coat body and to the sleeve by machine, for by positioning the parts as shown in FIG. 2, it is possible to complete the seam 8 entirely around the armhole at the sleeve head 7, the coat armhole 21 and the armhole Ztl of the sleeve lining by standard machines presently used in the trade.

Furthermore, by this invention the front and/ or back seams of the sleeve lining may conveniently be sewn or tacked to the front and/ or back seams of the cloth sleeve in a most convenient manner not previously possible by machine in other construction methods which sewed the armhole of the sleeve lining to the armhole of the coat.

It will be understood that the purpose of leaving the seam 4 incomplete as shown in FIG. 1 (or either or both the seams 4- and 3 open completely or substantially incomplete, i.e. only sewing the under sleeve lining portion 1 and the top sleeve lining portion 2 together to define armhole Zil) is to permit the portions of the sleeve lining to envelop the body of the coat 6 and the sleeve 5 and to fit over the armhole 211, as best shown in FIG. 2. In actual use it may be possible where the body of the coat is of lightweight material or is not too cumbersome, that the entire seam 4, 4a may be completed to the point shown in FIG. 3 before the seam 8 is sewn. However, in the regular weight mens or womens suits and coats, it has been found convenient to leave a major portion of the seam 4, or alternatively, seam 3, open as shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, so that the portions of the sleeve lining are able to be positioned over the armhole 21 of the coat 6, as shown in FIG. 2, and to encompass the body of the coat and the sleeve 5.

It will be further understood that by the method of this invention, the various objects set forth above are achieved for it is possible by this invention to eliminate the necessity for hand-sewing or felling of the sleeve lining armhole to the armhole of the coat and thereby this invention offers the advantage of reducing the cost and eliminating the tedious handsewing operations which have been associated with this step in the manufacture of coats.

By this invention, as we have noted, it is also possible to sew or tack the front and back seams of the sleeve lining to the front and back seams of the outer cloth sleeve by machine when the armhole of the sleeve lining is sewn to the armhole of the coat completely by machine, which was not previously possible.

The article produced by the method of this invention, having a sleeve lining which is machine sewn with a lock stitch, chain stitch or blind stitch seam around the armhole of the coat and sleeve, provides a new product which is more economical to manufacture and is stronger than hand stitched seams heretofore used.

It will be appreciated that by the method of this invention, the machine sewing of the sleeve lining to the coat and sleeve is done from the wrong side 'or inside of the cloth, the stitches being completed on the wrong side or inside faces of the cloth so that when the elements are turned right side out the seams are concealed and a neat, uniform and finished appearance, not attainable by previous methods, is presented at the juncture of the sleeve lining and the coat.

It will be understood that while the invention disclosed in this application has been described with respect to a specific application, that the method may be adopted to other assembly processes within the scope of the invention. The scope of the invention is defined by the claims which are appended hereto.

What is claimed is:

1. The process of assembling a coat body, sleeve and sleeve lining whereby the sleeve lining may be sewn by machine to the coat and sleeve, the elements assembled with the coat turned inside out, the head of the sleeve extending up through the inside of the armhole of the coat and the armhole of the sleeve lining extending around the outside of the armhole of the coat, the steps comprising stitching the armholes of the sleeve, the coat and the sleeve lining together, pulling the sleeve inside out through the armhole of the coat and placing it sideby-side with the sleeve lining, tacking the sleeve lining to the sleeve, pulling the coat through the sleeve lining so that the sleeve lining envelops the sleeve, sewing the cuff of the sleeve lining to the cult of the sleeve, turning the coat, sleeve lining and sleeve rightside out so that the parts are in position for use.

2. The process of assembling a coat body, sleeve and sleeve lining whereby the sleeve lining may be machine sewn to the coat and sleeve, the elements assembled with the coat turned inside out, the head of the sleeve extending up through the inside of the armhole of the coat, comprising the steps of positioning the sleeve lining, including an under sleeve lining portion and a top sleeve lining portion which are joined by a front seam and a back seam from the armhole end of the lining to the cult and at least one of which seams are left open except at the armhole, with its armhole surrounding the outside of the armhole of the coat, comprising stitching the armhole of the sleeve, the coat and the sleeve lining together, completing the front and back seams of the sleeve lining, pulling the sleeve inside out through the armhole of the coat and placing it side-by-side with the sleeve lining, sewing the sleeve lining to the sleeve along the respective front and back seams of said sleeve and sleeve lining, pulling the coat and sleeve through the sleeve lining so that the sleeve lining envelops the sleeve, sewing the cult ofthe sleeve lining to the cufi of the sleeve, turning the coat sleeve lining and sleeve rightside out so that the parts are in position for use.

3. A coat comprising a coat body, a sleeve and a sleeve lining each having an armhole and stitches, the armhole of the coat, the armhole of the sleeve and the armhole of the sleeve lining being attached together by said stitches completed on the wrong sides of the cloth of the coat body and the cloth of the sleeve lining, and a substantial portion of the sleeve lining and of the sleeve are stitched together by stitches completed on the wrong sides of the cloth of the sleeve lining and of the sleeve.

4. The process of assembling a coat body, sleeve, and sleeve lining whereby the sleeve lining may be sewed by machine to the coat and sleeve, the elements assembled with the coat turned inside out, the sleeve having been turned inside out and having been pulled through the armhole of the coat so that the sleeve extends up inside and through the armhole of the coat, the steps comprising positioning the armhole of the sleeve lining so that it extends around the outside of the armhole of the coat, stitching the armhole of the coat and of the sleeve lining together, pulling the sleeve through the stitched armhole, sewing the sleeve lining to the sleeve, pulling the coat through the sleeve lining whereby the sleeve lining envelops the sleeve, sewing the cuff of the sleeve lining to the cult of the sleeve, turning the coat, sleeve lining and sleeve rightside out so that the parts are in position for use.

5. A coat having a coat body, a sleeve and a sleeve lining each having armholes and stitches, the sleeve lining and coat are attached together around the armhole of each by said stitches completed on the wrong sides of the cloth of the coat and the cloth ofthe sleeve lining, and wherein the sleeve lining is formed of an under-sleeve portion and an upper-sleeve portion which are connected by a front seam and a back seam, which seams extend the entire length of the underand upper-sleeve portions of the lining, and the sleeve having front and back seams, the front and back seams of the sleeve lining are sewed respectively to the front and back seams of the sleeve for a substantial length thereof.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,575,562 Feiss Mar. 2, 1926 1,697,959 Maronna Jan. 8, 1929 l1,739,797 Maronna Dec. 17, 1929 2,156,640 Segal May 2, 1939 

